Labskaus

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Labskaus

October 1, 2026
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Yes — I found a better one, and this one is quite good for our purposes.

Mount Holyoke College’s European Alumnae group has an accessible page devoted specifically to “Labskaus (German salted meat & potatoes)”, contributed by alumna Lynn Meins ’70, resident in Germany. It gives the complete recipe: corned beef, onions, mashed potatoes and pickle brine, served with fried eggs, pickles, beet salad and optionally herring/Rollmops. Mount Holyoke Alumnae Association

Mount Holyoke — Labskaus recipe

The contributor describes it as a traditional North German dish, supposedly originating as a 19th-century shipboard meal. Her recipe source is the 1971 Dr. Oetker Schulkochbuch. Mount Holyoke Alumnae Association

This may actually be better for STDMi than Hamburg: an American college alumna living in Germany transmitting a traditional North German maritime recipe. That is almost exactly what we mean by a Hanseatic Foodway.

I also found an intriguing university connection at Würzburg: a university dining official discussing student dining identifies Labskaus as a northern German specialty. zeit.de But Mount Holyoke gives us the actual recipe, so I’d use Mount Holyoke.

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“Fish and chips was in many ways the pioneer fast-food industry.  It became an essential component of working-class diet and popular culture in parts of London, and over wide areas of industrial midland and northern England and southern Scotland, in the early decades of the twentieth century…I propose to argue that the fish and chip trade was not only important enough in itself to justify sustained historical analysis, but also that it provides a useful vantage point for examining important changes in British society more generally.”

— John Walken, 1998, Journal of Social History


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The New York Times is a powerful, well-resourced newspaper based in Manhattan. It sees much, reports much and influences the conversation of the republic. But Manhattan is not the republic. A newspaper, however distinguished, looks outward from somewhere; and the somewhere matters.

Its newsroom, sources and habitual audience gather largely in New York, Washington and the other metropolitan precincts of the educated professional class. From such places certain things appear enormous and others scarcely visible. Crime, energy, religion, guns, immigration and class acquire the proportions given them by the city. What seems self-evident in Brooklyn may look rather different in Boise, Birmingham or Bakersfield.

This is not principally a complaint about bias. It is a question of scale and perspective. The modern metropolis has an old temptation: to mistake the intensity of its own conversation for the breadth of the civilization surrounding it. Yet beyond the newsroom lie counties, workshops, farms, churches, substations, schoolhouses and kitchen tables where the country conducts most of its ordinary life, frequently without appearing above the fold.

National influence is therefore not national representation. A serious reader uses the Times for what it does exceptionally well — reporting, investigation and the argument of the governing and professional classes — but reads outward from it as well: local newspapers, regional voices, primary documents and, not least, direct observation.

The map is larger than Manhattan.  The republic contains more voices than its loudest newspaper, and more life than can be gathered into a morning edition.

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